Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Ninafurahi

Its been so long! A lot has happened!

SAFARI

I returned from our first excursion to Mombasa a little disappointed. Mombasa was absolutely excellent; I wish I had more time there. We had class in our hotel, which was a little tortuous considering we were on the coast of the Indian Ocean. Luckily, we were able to move class one day in order to go snorkeling! We went out on rickety, wooden canoes with sails. We had to travel very far away from our hotel to avoid the marine police. Our guides were worried that the marine police would not believe that we were students and would require a higher fee or brides. Sailing was just as fun a snorkeling. It was so freeing to be flying over the water. Our guide swam around with us for a few hours. He showed us so many things: star fish, sea urchins, puffer fish, eels, coral, and clown fish. No sharks luckily! I held a puffer fish - it was slimy! Overall it was a wonderful adventure. Mombasa has a large Muslim population and we went during Ramadan. One evening, we got to break the fast with a Muslim family. They seemed so happy to host us. I was worried since there was 14 of us. The meal took 8 hours to prepare, and was the labor of one woman, our host's sister. She started her day early early by going to the market to buy all the food, then cooked all day without being able to eat. I was so impressed. I can't even get cookies in the oven without eating half the batch. The food was awesome! There was flour and rice cakes, fried whole fish (Paloma and Collin ate the eye balls!) and so so so much more.

Last weekend, seven of us traveled to Naivasha, Kenya. It is a smaller town about two hours from Nairobi. We stayed in "bunks." It was just a room with beds and toilets and showers outside. The camp was on Lake Naivasha which is famous for its hippos and flamingos. The camp has a fence and a ditch with a drawbridge that is closed at night to keep the hippos out. We didn't see any hippos, disappointment.... But that is why we are going back. On Saturday we rented bikes, and after an hour dispute for student rates, entered Hell's Gate National Park. This is one of my most amazing life experiences. Go to Africa and do this. The park is stretches of savanna and high rock cliffs (like in the Lion King when Mufasa dies), truly picturesque. We biked in close range to zebras, cape buffalo, baboons, gazelle, and warthogs. There was nothing separating us from them, how exhilarating. At one point, we deviated from the trail and when returning were cut off by a pair of cape buffalo! It was terrifying, but amazing. They were slow and calm and just ate grass. Then we reached our destination, the gorge within the park. We were about to go down in it but it started pouring. Apparently, it pours every afternoon, all afternoon. So we got back on our bikes to start the 10 km ride in the downpour. Freezing, drenched, and mud splattered, we arrived at camp and quickly changed and went to the camp restaurant to drink hot chocolate.

On Friday, Tegan, Robbie and I searched for the elephant orphanage that I have become captivated with while watching the documentary show, "Elephant Diaries." We were misinformed about the matatu station and ended up instead at the Nairobi National Park entrance. Which was fine, but our day's plans completely changed. We went to the general Animal Orphanage there and a safari board walk. The animal orphanage houses a lot of cheetahs, mainly because baby cheetahs are so vulnerable (very few survive) that whenever one is found abandoned, it is cared for to boost the endangered population. There were many other species too. Soon after entering we were approached and asked if we wanted to pet the cheetahs! We said yes and soon we in the cheetah cage with three grown cheetahs! They we so calm and purred when we pet them. Their hair was very coarse, I had expected it to be like a cats. Their spots are so perfect, exact circles! We slipped the caretakers a few hundred shillings and continued on. I don't feel right about the bribery, and the cheetahs' life and environment were not helped because of us, but petting the cheetahs was quite amazing. Then we were approached and asked if we wanted to hold baby cheetahs! Now, this is probably worse, but we couldn't resist and soon were in the cheetah nursery. The babies looked somewhat like cats, but their eyes were so big and round and captivating. They had a bit of a hard time walking like a any other animal baby. It was really amazing and made me wish that I had a pet cheetah that would curl up with me on the couch.

SHULE

I have finished two classes already! On Monday we had our last Geographies and Development lecture, although we have more excursions through the class and therefore more papers. On Wednesday I finished Kiswahili I and I will start Kiswahili II on Monday. I am moving to the higher class, as I am the only one from the lower class continuing. I'm a little nervous. I am also taking Gender and Development and Political Science.

We have started talking about our ICRPs (if you are out of the loop, check out my first post). My plan may not be allowed, but I am going to fight for it. I want to travel to a tribe in rural Kenya to spend time with the potter women of the tribe. There, I hope to assist in the collect of clay from a clay source, and the rituals associated with the collection. The clay is usually carried long distances. Once it is transported, grog (sand-like grit) is added to the clay to add stability. The clay is wedged until the proper consistency is obtained. Pots are created with hand building techniques. There are specific forms and decorations that differ by location. Then there's the firing. It's basically a bonfire with pots. I hope to participate in this whole process. After some time is spent within the tribe, I hope to aid in the transportation of the pots to the urban market. I would go back to Nairobi and work with the people who sell the pots. I know a lot about the process because I have researched Kenyan tribal pottery before coming to Kenya through one of my classes. The problem is that ICRPs must be done in Nairobi so that the student can return to their host family at night. Fred said we would discuss it though.

MAISHA

In the previous post I wrote about challenges. I recently realized why I came to Kenya - to challenge myself. I challenged myself in a way that is so different from what I know; I do not even know the outcome. I am enjoying myself because I am being challenged. It is quite the opposite. I love the challenges, they are shaping my experience. They are the biggest part of my life.

Recently, I have had issues with people approaching me on the street. The attention I get is not fun. If I am alone, I will get approached several times a day. Today, a well dressed, clean man came up to me asking where I was going. Then he asked, "Can you help me?" I knew it was coming. I immediately said, "NO." He walked away a little shocked and then started mumbling about how he needs food. I see people on the street who are immobile, laying limp or have lost their fingers and toes or children who repeat the same phrase over and over. They all pull at my heart, but this man did not. He angered me. There were so many other people that actually need help. He was out strolling on a Saturday and spoke perfect English. Knowing English well is a sign that the person is middle or upper class; rural areas do not teach English.

Later that day, a matatu conductor really wanted me to get on the matatu. Matatu drivers often grab my forearm to get my attention. I always swiftly pull my arm down to show that I do not want to be touched. This matatu driver grabbed me, and then after two times of resisting and running away, finally stopped. Then a cop appeared, but I doubt he did anything.

As I was going home, a Kenyan my age asked if I could spare a minute of my time. I reluctantly said no. He was being very polite, and I could have listened to what he had to say, but I had a long day unwanted interactions. He continued his politeness and respected my wishes. This is the hard thing about Kenya, there is no way to tell who is good and who is not.

Overall, I am falling in love with Nairobi and its people. I still love shocking people with my knowledge of Kiswahili. I also love telling people that I'm from Nairobi. They laugh.

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